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The China Inn staff is trying hard, from the voluble owner to the waitresses to the kitchen. The whole fish with black bean sauce is a good buy, fried lightly and carefully, and seasoned with fire and flair. Full bar service. CB, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Parking in adjacent lot. Some dishes are hot, but more are piquant or aromatic or multi-flavored without being hot. With so many good new restaurants, it is obvious why some old favorites have missed being reviewed this year. Full bar service. Pigfoot 1812 Hamlin St. NE. It has baba ghanouj and taramasalata, cucumbers with yogurt and mashed potato dip, all to be scooped with toasted pita sprinkled with oregano. L, D $1.95-$4.50. There are also Wienerschnitzel, Sauerbraten, goulash and roast pork, plus a parade of desserts from apple strudel to Sachertorte of distinction. Open daily. 203 Strand St., Alexandria. 338-3121. Kebabs are tender and juicy, only mildly seasoned, so that the charcoal flavor predominates. Salads are superb -- spinach with a profusion of crisp bacon and crumbled blue cheese, caesar with fresh parmesan and truly fresh croutons. Although the list of hors d'oeuvres is tempting, particularly the caviars with or without bliny, main dishes are more satisfactory, notably fish wrapped in pastry -- pate de sole Vladimir for one person, or kulebiaka for two people. Full bar service. 4) On the lighter side, David Bowie performed in DC during the Young Americans tour in 1974. Szechuan Garden Bethesda 7800 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda. 548-0076. Open daily. Yet such a warm and charming little nook o a restaurant might be worth stopping by for a drink. Ben's Chili Bowl. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations accepted. But above all, it is a personal restaurant, where the maitre d'hotel remembers not only your name but also where you sat last year, and maybe 10 years ago when they opened. Thank goodness the shish kebab was perfectly cooked and well-trimmed tender meat, and the orange cream pudding a refreshing contract of tart and sweet. Free parking in adjacent lot after 5:30 p.m. Beer and wine only. 258-0405. The Tiki Room. L $3.95-$8.95, D $6.95-$14.95. Closed Sun. L daily ex Sun, D daily. Full bar service. l daily ex Sat, D daily. The food is rustic and homespun. Parking in front. The captain recites a stream of daily specials -- unfortunately too many to remember and sometimes at prices higher than any other menu entries. 265-8955. Parking in front. L $1.75-$5.25, D $1.95-$6.95. AE, CB, D, MC, V. No reservations. L daily ex Sat, D daily. The standard onion soup is unexpectedly fine. L $3.25-$8.50, D $8.90-$14.80. Rustic and reasonable, with creditable food, Vietnam Georgetown is a neighborhood ethnic restaurant that just doesn't happen to be in an ethnic neighborhood. AE, MC, V. Reservations accepted. The french fries have that nearly sweet taste of perfectly fried potatoes, the cole-slaw is fine. 333-4810. Full bar service. Every Friday night, he would head to The Day Lily, a red and gold velvet-walled Chinese restaurant . NW. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Connected to a seafood market, The Fishery gets the best. 483-2266. L daily ex Sat, D daily ex Sun. 457-0057. For dessert -- have something. L $3.45-$6.95, D $8.45-$13.95. Hogate's 9th St. and Maine Ave. SW. 484-6300. Phyllis C. Richman Assisted Carole Sugarman; Phyllis C. Richman is restaurant critic of The Washington Post. Open daily. What attractions require/offer timed or advance tickets? No credit cards. McDonald's can fold up its golden arches when it comes to competing with Sholl's cafeterias, where a full dinner with fresh fruits and fresh vegetables and homemade pies and puddings wil cost less than $4. tWaiters are familiar with the food, knowing which fresh herbs are used with which sauce, and keep a watchful eye on your table from a distance. AE, MC, V. No reservations. Open daily. Full bar service. The tables are too small, and you are likely to feel rushed, but the crush is a tribute to the food. The Washington, DC of the 1980s and '90s was a dramatically different place than the Washington, DC of 2017. Children's prices. AE, CB, MC, V. Reservations suggested. But more delicate dishes have been made clumsily; fettucine with caviar is cotton-candy pink from a strange tasteless stuff that is meant as red caviar, and veal has been pasty on the surface and cooked dry, immersed in a lumpy sauce. Nora is full of clatter, its service rough-edged and harried. Even the traditional sauces -- dark, resonant mole and smooth, piquant salsa verde -- are unusually good. Figaro's Pizza. Vietnam Georgetown 2934 M. St., NW. L $3.35-$6.25, D $4.95-$10.75. Full bar service. Full bar service. L $4.50-$9.25, D $7.95-$14. The menu lists 20 dishes, many of them similar to one another, and all with the large, pale fermented pancakes that serve as platters and silverware for Ethiopian dining. MC, V. Reservations required for parties over six for dinner only. Open daily. dFull bar service. Parking lots next door and across the street. L, D $1.95-$4.25. Open daily. No-smoking section. Gaithersburg. AE, MC, V. No reservations. The Georgetown branch is cluttered with tile tables in the garden-bright dining room. Parking in front. Similar topping is served on crisp-edged eggplant or squash to no lesser effect. L, D daily. L MC, V. Reservations suggested. Street parking. Parking in adjacent lot. L $5.95-$8.75, D $8.95-$15.95. 956-2209.L $5.95-$8.95, D $9.25-$14.50. Bacchus is a charming little place, with brick walls and tile tables. Open daily. Closed Sun. You may start with asparagus dried out in the reheating, but you are likely to have traded recipes with one of the owners by the end, after eating too much of his homemade bread, and still be tempted to end with a marvelous zucotto. The dining room, arranged with raised platform and balcony in addition to the main dining room, is dark wood with bright blue accents, a bit old and a bit new and very much in the spirit of a Bierstube. Full bar seravice. Ocean ix is to be found on a side street, a pretty little house with awnings over the windows and a flower garden in front, and flanked by a parking lot. 175. September 21, 1980. giorgios 1247 20th St. NW. No smoking section. L, D daily. L, D daily. L $3.95-$7.95, D $6.95-$15.75. Open daily. Trader Vic's Capital Hilton, 16th and K Sts. Vie de France 1990 K St. NW. Much of the food, whether the soups or sauces, is slightly clumsy, lacking delicacy or being left too bland. Capucine 1645 Wisconsin Ave. NW. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations required. Open daily. The sandwich breads and ice creams are homemade. Parking lot. "Jean-Louis Palladin was the first chef I worked for in the United States," says Ripert. Those who really know the Palm, though, recognize lunch as an unheralded bargain. 1982 Having introduced nouvelle cuisine at Ma Maison in Los Angeles, Chef Wolfgang Puck presents "California cuisine" to patrons of his new chic-casual Sunset Strip restaurant, Spago. L $2.75-$4.25, D $4.50-$7.50. The surroundings are sedate, tasteful, an elegant collation of heavily textured fabric walls, plants and strikingly beautiful photographs.The food, too, is unusual, tasteful and elegant, a changing repertioire of dishes mostly Vietnamese but from all of Asia, with always a few exciting new inventions. L $3.45-$4.95, D $3.50-$10.50. In 1970, the Old Ebbitt Grill was struggling . " DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONE. Next, a fish filet or whole broiled flounder, either plain or with good lump crabmeat. L $8.25-$11.25, D $8.80-$16.50. But the chef understands the intricacies of seasoning, from soups to sherbets. "Their clam chowder is amazing and the OEG Burger is great for lunch.". One evening the staff was as nice as it could be, but few of the menu items were in stock, and those that were looked grim and tasted no better. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Lamb is also excellent here, wither the filet with tarragon or the rack of lamb with a border of very good vegetables. Nora cooks fish with imagination, chopping the remains with dill and yogurt for a salad. Still, from the orange-scented ramos gin fizz to bananas Foster, a dinner (or brunch) at 219, accompanied by a sprightly -- and reasonable -- bottle of vouvray, is sufficiently reminiscent of New Orleans to recommend the trip. L $3.50-$5.95, D $6.95-$12.95. Clyde's food is more famous than good. J. R.'s Steak House 9401 Lee Hwy., Fairfax. Street parking. Dynasty 6852 Old Dominion Dr., McLean. 338-1896. Parking lot in front. ft. apartment is a 1 bed, 1.0 bath unit. The wisest choices are among the blackboard specials, but dinner may be accompainied by indifferent side dishes. Open daily. L $2.25-$4.95, D $5.95-$12.95. L daily ex Sat, D daily. If there is a touch too much starch in a sauce here or there, the seasonings are always lively. The Third Edition 1218 Wisconsin Ave. NW. L daily ex Sat, D daily. Le Manouche is one of those unfathomable French restaurants where the food is wonderful and dreadful, reasonable and expensive, a little of the best and the worst. 751-9266. Unfortunately, the kitchen also thinks that some important qualities don't matter. Careful attention shows in the quality of salad greens and small details, though overall the food tends to be good rather than memorable. Comus Inn 23900 Old Hundred Rd., Comus, Md. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. L, D daily. Full bar service. L $2.95-$5.95, D $4.95-$15.95. Closed Sun. Main courses cover five pages, but concentrate on the first, where you will find crisp whole fish Hunan style, orange beef, honeyed ham. Beer and wine only. Full bar service. But the environment -- harried, slap-dash service and unkept surroundings -- has not been a strong point. Full bar service. The Salle du Bois and Colony might have been swell, but probably the most exclusive restaurant in the city in the 1950s was the Rive Gauche, located at 1310 Wisconsin Avenue NW in Georgetown. L $7.75-$9.50, D $12-$17.50. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. L $2.50-$7, D $6.50-$11. Full bar service. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. U Street Corridor. Now it's driving me bonkers trying to figure it out! AE, CB, CC, D, V. Reservations suggested. AE, MC, V. No reservations. Parking in rear. Scads of money and effort went into designing this lush multi-level saloon of sincere wood and polished brass. Parking lot. In its second year, this lively bright, casual French restaurant is erratic but worth consideration. St. Regis 2218 Wisconsin Ave. NW. Parking lot. Full bar service. And the service is endearing, the wine list modestly priced. L $4-$10.50, D $8.50-$13.50. Service is formal, attentive. No resrvations. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested Street parking. Parking lot across the street after 6 p.m. Full bar service. Full bar service. Cantina d'Italia 1214-a 18th St. NW. Frascati 4806 Rugby Ave., Bethesda. Chardas 523 South 23rd St., Arlington. Just as we say Kleenex when we mean tissues, Le Lion d'Or has become a synonym for grand French dining in Washington. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. 232-8400. Parking in shopping center lot. Children's meals. 2 / 30. A comment to a waiter that he brought the wrong vintage of wine was answered with, "Vintages don't matter." Plata Grande 4060 Powder Mill Rd., Beltsville. No reservations. Le Gaulois 2133 Pennsylvania Ave. NW. But a change of chefs has brought overcooked chicken, indiffernet sauces. Eating trends move slowly, but in Washington they are continuing steadily towards seafoods and away from red meats. There are flaws: snails with too-strong, too-thick green peppercorn sauce, mussels with garlic butter but no character. Reservations required. No-smoking section. Mai Flower 2304 Wilson Blvd., Arlington. Most unusual among the appetizers are crispy shrimp balls and vegetable curl, the smoky diced bits to be wrapped in letturce. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Straight ahead is the book section, as tempting to a reader as any bakery display case. 354-1677. And the least interesting is at the end -- the ubiquitous carrot cake. Capriccio's concerts now regularly garner praise from DC's top reviewers. Our chic private dining room offers an intimate experience with a view of our expansive wine cellar. L, D $2.25-$8.50. Closed Sun. 342-0444. 321-9440. Children's prices. 451-7356. And the superb brioche with anchovy butter and desserts such as creamy, puckery lemon tart on a paper-thin crunch of shell fill remaining crevices. Beyond that are light main dishes -- quiches, eggs, salads, and a couple of undistinguished vegetable and fish casseroles. Fish is often a hightlight, and while the memu offers few surprises, familiar dishes are done uncommonly well. Nothing changes at Szechuan & Hunan -- fortuantely. L $3.25-$4.75, D $7.25-$11.95. Full bar service. Mussels ravigote are similarly outstanding among appetizers. Full bar service. Closed Mon. A new mold for Oriental restaurants has been cast by Germaine's. Washington has many elegant restaurants, but most of those serving good food in luxurious surrounding are either French or Italian. IF YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT HAPpened to restaurants in the '80s, consider that the first restaurant I reviewed in 1980 was French-American and the last in 1989 was Italian-American . And the food is always decent and hearty, always served in huge portions and sometimes great. L $2.75-$5.25, D $4.95-$11.95. The food, however, remains best for a snack or light meal, Mexican food that is standard quality, or at least sinks to standard in its reheating a lunchtime. AE, CB, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. 244-1740. Noteworthy also is the wine list, extensive though pricey, and the wine specials on the daily menu. Closed Mon. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations suggested. Parking in front. China Garden serves fine Cantonese food, stretching from congee to seafood in fried taro baskets. ($) 4.6 Stars - 9 Votes. Arlington, VA 22209 (Map & Directions) (703) 524-2929. Full bar service. The variety is appealing, from hors d'oeuvre plates that are fresh vegetable salads and tiny bits of pate, sardines and the like, to moist bluefish in nantua sauce to cassoulet or just a rib eye steak with french fries. But I found no dish that meets any desire. Open dailey. 1232 36th Street NW, Washington, DC 20007 (202) 342-0009.